What's the Deal With a Chemical Peel?

What's the Deal with a Chemical Peel? 

A Review of Light/Medium vs. Deep Peels

What is a chemical peel? Chemical peels are one of the most popular professional skin care services today because they can improve the quality, texture and color of skin. A chemical peel involves the application of a solution to the face or specific areas to remove the skin's top, most damaged layers, allowing newer, healthier skin to emerge. Chemical peels come in a range of strengths, from a deeper peels to more superficial peels.  Several light to medium-depth peels can often achieve similar results to one deeper peel treatment, with less risk and shorter recovery time.  This is an advantage of a series treatment.

Why would I Want One?

 

Chemical peels can treat the following skin conditions:

• Wrinkled or sun-damaged facial skin
• Vertical wrinkles around the mouth, including those that cause lipstick "bleed"
• Crow's feet lines around your eyes, and perhaps some skin laxity in your lower eyelid area
• Fine wrinkling of your upper eyelids
• Brown spots or blotchy skin coloring 
• Some precancerous skin growths
• Acne or chicken pox scars
• Superficial facial scars from a past injury
• Skin roughness
• Signs of photo-damage
• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Acne breakouts
• Skin congestion
• Some forms of hyper-pigmentation and unbalanced skin tone

Types of Peels:

• TCA skin peels use trichloroacetic acid and can be applied to the face, neck, hands, and other exposed body areas. It has less bleaching effect than phenol peels, and is good for "spot" peeling of specific areas. It can be used for deep, medium, or light peeling, depending on the concentration and method of application.

• A phenol peel is a deep chemical peel. Phenol is a full-face treatment used when sun damage or wrinkling is severe. It can also be used to treat limited areas of the face, such as deep wrinkles around the mouth, but it may permanently bleach the skin, leaving a line of demarcation between the treated and untreated areas that must be covered with makeup.

• Lactic acid lotions like Lac-Hydrin can help treat keratosis pilaris, caused by a buildup of keratin, and lighten brown spots at the same time.

• At-home chemical peels are less concentrated than those offered by a medical provider or an esthetician.  But if you use an at-home peel, there is a risk of applying too strong an acid for your skin type. Some reports on RealSelf of at-home treatments for acne scars, acne, and other facial skin concerns reveal that people can get severely burned and scarred from products. 

It may take months before you can fully see the results from a chemical peel. Most patients feel that it is definitely worth waiting for, and in the case of deeper treatments, the benefits tend to last a long time. More superficial resurfacing treatments may be needed to retain your results over time.

Of course, your skin will continue to age, and the wrinkles caused by movement of your facial muscles will eventually reappear. Some wrinkles may reappear sooner than others, depending on location and the type and extent of your chemical peel. Despite this, improvements from resurfacing treatments should improve your skin's tone and texture, resulting in younger, fresher-looking skin. It's important to consider what depth chemical peel is right for you.  This decision depends upon the condition of your skin and your goals for treatment.

Light-to-medium strength peels

Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA) peels:  Generally, the most superficial peels are those using AHAs, including glycolic acid. Sometimes, a single treatment with an AHA peel will give your skin a fresher, healthier appearance and a radiant glow. Repeated treatments can help improve your skin's texture, reduce the effects of aging and sun damage. Your treatment provider can also recommend a maintenance program with AHA products that you can regularly apply at home.

An in-office AHA peel requires no anesthesia or sedation. You will only feel a tingling or mild stinging sensation when the AHA peel is applied to your face. Immediately after the treatment, you should be able to wear makeup, and go back to your daily routine.

TCA peel: A TCA peel is often used for the treatment of wrinkles, pigmentary changes, and skin blemishes.  Many patients benefit from having TCA applied on the face, neck, and other areas that have been exposed to the sun. For spot peeling of limited areas, including around the mouth or eyes, TCA peels are often preferred because they have less bleaching effect than solutions containing phenol, another popular peeling agent. For that reason, some medical providers have found TCA to be effective in treating darker-skinned patients.

Milder TCA peels can be frequently repeated to achieve cumulative effects, or TCA can be used to achieve a medium or even a deep peel, depending on the acid concentration and manner of application.

Deep (phenol) peel

A phenol, also known as carbolic acid, peel is sometimes recommended for treating particularly rough and/or sun-damaged facial skin. Phenol is effective in reducing the appearance of wrinkles ranging from fine lines to deeper creases. It can correct pigmentary problems, including blotchiness or age-related brown spots, and may be used to treat precancerous skin conditions.

Phenol is particularly helpful in minimizing the vertical lines that form around the mouth due to aging. The disadvantage of phenol for spot peeling of limited areas is that it often has a bleaching effect. After being treated with phenol, you may need to wear makeup to help the treated area blend into the surrounding skin. Unlike TCA peels, phenol cannot be used on your neck or areas. Variations in a phenol peel formula, creating a "buffered" or milder solution, may allow for greater flexibility in its use.

"Buffered phenol" offers yet another option for severely sun-damaged skin. One such formula uses olive oil, among other ingredients, to diminish the strength of the phenol solution. Another slightly milder formula uses glycerin. Buffered phenol peels may be more comfortable for patients, and the skin heals faster than with a standard phenol peel.

How is a chemical peel performed?

For light-to-medium skin peels (TCA and AHAs), your medical provider or skin care therapist will select the best chemical or chemical mix for your skin. The solution is then applied with a sponge, cotton pad, cotton swab, or brush, avoiding the eyes, brows and lips. Various concentrations of an AHA may be applied weekly or at longer intervals to obtain the best result.  This entire process takes less than an hour and has minimal aftercare and side effects.

After the peel solutions have performed they are neutralized with another solution followed by specific aftercare products.

This is the preferred method of Darling Esthetics.  Darling Esthetics uses Dermalogica BIOACTIVE™ PEEL.  It's a powerful new skin resurfacing system from the skin health experts at Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute. It helps reduce acne, pigmentation and signs of premature aging to reveal smoother, brighter and softer skin.

Why BioActive Peel?

With BioActive Peel, you can get the powerful results without the associated risks or downtime. In fact, your skin will look and feel healthier than ever!

The Dermalogica BioActive Peel is designed to work with the skin’s chemistry, not against it. When performed by a certified skin care professional, it safely removes dull outer layers of skin and helps the skin underneath regenerate for a smooth, radiant complexion.   In general, BioActive Peel can be tailored to address specific concerns.

Your skin condition, skin concern and dedication to post-treatment care will impact the frequency and results of BioActive Peel treatments.  Clients typically notice dramatically improved skin quality, texture and tone within three treatments. Ideally, a series of three treatments are performed over a six- to twelve-week period, followed by maintenance treatments twice a year.post treatment care.

Immediately after your BioActive Peel treatment, your skin may appear red and flushed.   As your skin goes through the renewal process, it is normal to experience dryness, redness and tightness, as well as some peeling or flaking within a week.    Or you may notice a more pronounced appearance of pigmentation as it rises to the skin’s surface.

However, there's no scarring and no downtime.  Again, this is a chemical peel that works with the skin, not against it.  These side effects will subside quickly with proper post-treatment care, starting with the BioActive Peel After Care Kit.  This kit includes: UltraCalming™ Cleanser, broad-spectrum Super Sensitive Shield SPF30 and two nourishing moisturizers, as well as AGE Smart Multivitamin Thermafoliant® to help buff away post-treatment peeling.  In addition, ask your skin careprofessional for a fully customized Dermalogica skin care prescription to help ensure lasting results. 

What's so special about the BioActive Peel?

BioActive Peel works in sequential steps with the BioActive Peel Application Method synergistically and safely decrease surface roughness, treat acneic skin conditions, reduce fine lines and help minimize the appearance of pigmentation in the epidermis and dermal-epidermal interface.   It's unique multi-phase approach preps the skin by sloughing off epidermal cells.  Then it removes lipids that block peel penetrationpeel.  Follwed by the digestion of keratin protein.  This then accelerates cellular resurfacing and renewal.  Thus, it stimulates collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) within the dermis.  Furthermore, it increases natural ceramides.  Finally it neutralizes, calms and soothes inflamed skin restoring the natural pH of skin. 

A full-face deep chemical peel takes one to two hours, with more limited procedures, like treating the wrinkles above the lip, will generally take less than a half-hour. A solution is applied to the area being treated, avoiding the eyes, brows, and lips. There is a slight burning sensation, but it should be minimal since the solution also acts as an anesthetic. 

After the peel solution has worked on the skin, it is neutralized with water. Approximately an hour later, a thick coating of petroleum jelly is layered over the patient's face, covering the protective crust which rapidly develops over the area. This stays in place for one to two days. In an alternative technique, the patient's face is covered by a "mask," or strips of adhesive tape, with openings for the eyes and mouth, which is particularly effective in cases of severe wrinkling.

Additional notes for deeper peels:

• Possible complications can include scarring, infection, or abnormal pigmentation. These tend to bleach, and you may need to wear makeup to match treated and untreated areas.
• EKG monitoring is advised.
• Cannot be used on the neck or other parts of the body.
• Not as effective in treating individuals with dark, oily complexions.
• Some facial skin disorders do not respond to chemical peeling.
• Skin pores may appear larger, and the skin may not tan properly.
• Can activate latent cold sore infections.
• All forms of deep skin peels include the risk of delayed healing and scarring.

Recovery from a deep chemical peel:

The time it takes to recover varies greatly among individuals.  For the first few days, your skin will exhibit redness and swelling to varying degrees.   Depending on the post-treatment regime suggested by your medical provider, a scab may or may not form over the treated area.  You will be advised about cleansing your skin, and if and when you should apply ointments.  For men, shaving must be delayed for a bit. It's essential to follow your provider's recovery plan.

Within seven to 10 days, new skin will emerge. After the initial redness subsides, The your skin may be pink for several weeks to months.   Makeup can usually be applied within a couple of weeks.

Depending on the type and depth of your skin resurfacing, straining, bending, and lifting should be avoided shortly after your procedure.   For deeper resurfacing, you should be able to return to work in a week or two.

Possible Side effects:

Chemical peels are generally safe, however, any risks or side effects should be discussed by your medical provider prior to treatment.  

Side effects may include:

• Infection
• Abnormal healing
• Allergic reactions
• If prone to herpes, possible eruption
• Raised or thickened scarring
• Unanticipated skin color changes or skin blotchiness

*Following all resurfacing aftercare instructions is vital to the process. 

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Cost

Chemical peel costs vary widely. Cost can be affected by your medical provider's level of experience, type of chemical peel applied, and geographic location.

Deep peel cost may also include a facility fee, anesthesia fee, medications, surgical garments, and medical tests, among other items. Please ask your provider for a full breakdown of costs prior to your procedure.

Skin resurfacing procedures are not usually covered by insurance. Occasionally, however, if the resurfacing is being performed to treat precancerous skin conditions or improve certain types of scars, insurance coverage may apply at a medical facility. Your provider should explain how to check with your insurance company to see if a procedure will be covered.

Before You Get a Chemical Peel

Tell your doctor or skin care therapist if you have any history of scarring, cold sores that keep coming back, or facial X-rays.  Before you get any peel, your doctor or esthetician may ask you to stop taking certain drugs and prepare your skin by using or ceasing to use other medications, such as Retin-A, Renova, or glycolic acid. A doctor may also prescribe antibiotics or antiviral drugs.  Also, for a deep peel ask your doctor in advance whether you will need to have someone drive you home after your peel.

In conclusion, chemical peels can be very effective.  With the right consultation and the goals at ready, you can find which route is best suited for your skin care needs and lifestyle.

Salt Scrubs?

Scrub a Dub Dub...What's a Salt Glow?

December 4, 2017

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Jennifer Darling

Let's Break it Down

A sea salt glow's, also called a salt scrub, purpose is to exfoliate your skin, removing the outermost layer of dead skin cells and leaving your skin softer and smoother.  It is the most popular body treatment at the spa. This exfoliating treatment is stimulating to your skin and leaves it feeling "glowing."  A Salt Glow basically a facial for the body.

 What Happens During a Salt Glow?

Depending on the spa, you might be laying on a massage table covered with a towel or sheet or a thin piece of plastic, or you might be lying on a wet table.  For this articles's purpose, I'll be describing the procedures for Darling Esthetics.

As you lay on your stomach, the therapist dry rubs your skin preparing it for the treatment.  Draped with a sheets and a warm blanket, only the part she is working on is exposed.  She rubs a refined oil followed by fine dead sea salt into your skin  There is also something to make it smell wonderful. It could be essential oils that will have some kind of therapeutic effect (lavender for relaxing, citrus for uplifting) or even yummy foods that are beneficial to the skin.

Here at Darling Esthetics, the Dermalogica Clean Massage Oil Base is used.  This is a conditioning Olive Fruit and Grape Seed Oil-based massage medium ideal for customizing body therapy products to address different skin conditions.  It's lightly-scented essential oil blend leaves skin conditioned and velvety soft and smooth. Key ingredients are "Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit and Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed: rich in antioxidant polyphenols that protect and smooth. Aleurites Moluccana (Kukui Nut): a rich source of vitamins A, C and E plus omega-3 fatty acids that help reinforce the barrier lipids of the Stratum Corneum. Used to treat skin disorders, dry skin, acne and irritation. Wasabia Japonica (Wasabi) Root and Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root: stimulate circulation and soothe skin. Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf: rich in polyphenols; protects against free radical damage (ROS), fights the formation of AGEs and inhibits MMPs. Tocopherol (Vitamin E) and Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel: help smooth skin. Silicones: melt gently into skin to help diminish fine lines and smooth texture."

Now, sea salt is fairly abrasive and some therapists have a heavier hand than others. Individuals also differ in their skin sensitivity. If it feels too harsh, be sure and speak up.

Darling Esthetics uses Kurr Fine Dead Sea Salt. The therapeutic effects of Dead Sea salt are derived from its supremely rich mineral composition.  Dead Sea salt helps cleanse the skin is its ability to slough off dead skin cells that can contribute to skin roughness, clogged pores, and blemishes.  Because Dead Sea salt contains only small amounts of sulfur salts, it offers a gentle way to reduce oily skin and clear away acne. too. It is an excellent natural antibacterial and anti-inflammatory mineral.  It also has immense skin hydrating effects due to its high magnesium content. Magnesium salts bind to water, which in turn boosts skin absorption and permeability.  

Following the sloughing of dead skin portion, is the cleansing part.  Here we use Dermalogica Conditioning Body Cleanser.  This is a rich, skin conditioning botanical cleanser for the entire body.  It provides soap-free, superior cleansing that’s acid-balanced to prevent overstripping or over-drying.  Your skin is left refreshingly clean and soft. This cleanser is enriched with moisturizing essential oils to leave skin smooth and supple. These fragrant botanical extracts provide a natural conditioning lather.  Some key ingredients include "Quillaja Saponaria: a naturally foaming extract that gently removes impurities and excess oils. Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel, Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) and Rosmarinus Offi cinalis (Rosemary): purifying essential oils that invigorate skin. Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5 ), Santalum Album (Sandalwood) and Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender): help condition skin, leaving it smooth and soft."

Some spas, including Darling Esthetics, do body polishes in a room without a shower and remove the exfoliant and cleanser with steamed towels. This is very enjoyable as the heat sinks into your skin. 

Next, you're dried off followed by skillful application warm body lotion.  Here we use Dermalogica Body Hydrating Cream.  This amazing, advanced body cream contains hydroxy acids and essential plant oils to smooth and condition your skin.  It also provides further gentle exfoliation and hydration to leave skin toned and smooth.  The lovely botanical extracts and essential oils used further aid to moisturize and condition skin.  As a bonus, it's non-greasy emulsion absorbs easily and provides immediate hydration results.  Some key ingredients include "Lactic Acid, Saccharum Offi cinarum (Sugar Cane) and Pyrus Malus (Apple): natural hydroxy acid extracts that smooth skin. Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea): helps soothe irritation. Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender), Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) and Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange): essential oils that soothe and soften skin. Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (Lemongrass): naturally fragrant; energizes and revives while toning. Rosmarinus Offi cinalis (Rosemary): provides natural toning; revitalizes skin."

But wait!  It's not over yet.  Afterward, you turn over and she does the other side. Yes!!!

Why shouldn't I just do this at home?

Well, that's a fair question.  While at home scrubs can be effective they will not be as effective as a having a professional Esthetician give you a knowledgeable body scrub with quality professional products.  And she can reach those hard to scrub places, like your back.

But the main difference with these exfoliating treatments is the ingredients.  More expensive body scrubs usually have more expensive oils. Fragrance comes from high-quality essential oils and from natural ingredients.  These will be found in more expensive body scrubs. Budget body scrubs will have synthetic fragrances and other synthetic ingredients.The price of body scrubs is determined by the quality of the ingredients (high-quality and green vs. lower quality and synthetic), the brand identity (high-end or budget). Body scrubs might also have skin-nourishing ingredients and chemical exfoliants like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) to dissolve the intra-cellular "glue" that holds cells together.  Bottom line...Look At The Ingredients!

Ok, here's the sciencey stuff that benefits you..

Our bodies speak in so many ways.  They constantly send thousands of messages simultaneously, both subtle and overt. A skin therapists is trained to perceive and interpret these messages and to master the art and science of client reading and body mapping.

"We do this by looking, listening, asking, touching and recording. We use our ears, eyes, our fingertips, and our intuition to do it. Of course, every professional treatment begins with an in-depth consultation that will not only reveal any contraindications to your planned course of treatment, but will also give you a glimpse into the client’s current regimen and expectations." 

Creating the ultimate personalized experience requires attention to the finer details of “who is inside the skin and what do they really need from me?”

Body mapping requires observing the skin on the body as a series of zones, as well as a collective whole. Incorrect product choices, environmental trauma, over-processed diet, chronic stress, and resulting poor elimination can all manifest as different challenges on the skin.

Using these observations, your therapist can suggest prescriptive product recommendations, any dietary or lifestyle advice to help your skin be at it's healthiest.  Also, they will use it as a basis of comparison for a follow up treatment.

*I'd like to thank the Dermalogica Educational Center for providing various informative facts to help me create this article