Ouch, My Sensitive Skin

Ouch!  My Sensitive Skin!

Sensitive is everywhere. Nearly half the world population describes their skin as sensitive or very sensitive.  Yet, finding the right treatment products for clients can feel almost impossible. That’s because your sensitive skin looks and feels different for everyone else.  What works for one person more than likely won’t work for another.

Some people experience mild, occasional flare-ups while others deal with constant redness and discomfort. Sometimes sensitive skin is hereditary and other times it’s tied to stress, diet, cosmetic ingredients or pollution. Triggers can be tough to figure and even harder to avoid.

Why?

Clinically speaking, sensitive skin describes a predisposition you’re born with. When skin is sensitive, its protective outer layer (the epidermal lipid barrier) is less efficient at blocking irritants, microbes and allergens, and thus more prone to reactions such as blushing and allergies. This predisposition is genetic, but it can be managed with appropriate care. sensitized skin Irritability from lifestyle and external factors is sensitized skin. Avoiding triggers can reduce or eliminate symptoms. When triggers can’t be avoided (think pollution, environment and temperature sensitivity), symptoms can be managed through skin care and lifestyle changes.

Signs of Sensitivity & Sensitization:

• Visible redness, flaking or cracking on the cheeks and forehead. This indicates dehydrated skin and impaired barrier function
• Blushing and itching, or burning sensations, which can also be a sign of over-reactive capillaries
• Small, rash-like bumps or breakouts, not to be confused with acne breakouts
• Thin skin texture with a translucent appearance
• A feeling of tightness, which can indicate dehydration and lead to skin reactions from products
• Redness or blotchiness. This signals over-reactive capillaries or a tendency toward rosaceaNo matter what the trigger, a common trait of sensitive skin is a compromised lipid barrier. A healthy lipid barrier helps keep skin hydrated and healthy by holding water in and keeping environmental pollutants and microbes out.

Sensitivity Factors

• Lifestyle (stress, diet, hot showers or baths, spicy foods, air travel smoking, dehydration, alcohol, reactions to cosmetic ingredients, trauma from laser resurfacing or peels, and over processing caused by excess exfoliation or non-pH balanced products)
• Environment (pollution, airborne allergens, sun exposure, weather, and sudden changes in climates or microclimates – like transfer from cold, dry winds outdoors to dry heat indoors)
• Physiology (stress, hormonal fluctuations)
• Disease (rosacea, eczema, psoriasis)
• Genetics (hereditary skin sensitivity)

Fortunately for sensitive skin sufferers, there is hope.

Paying attention to factors and their effects can help you treat them.  Note the possible effects of common irritants including, extreme temperatures, and current skin care products or cosmetics. Also, pay attention to possible skin reactions to diet and stress. Adjust your diet and stress levels, and you can go a long way toward improving skin yourhealth.  Pollution, alcohol, smoking, medical resurfacing procedures and over-exfoliation should be avoided or reduced, or skin should be protected.  Use SPF protection daily. Physical sunscreens with Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide among their active ingredients are usually less irritating to highly-sensitive skin than their chemical-based counterparts.

Research by The International Dermal Institute shows that combining certain natural botanical extracts can help reduce symptoms of sensitive or sensitized skin without interrupting skin’s natural healing process while soothing soothes sensitive skin’s most painful and embarrassing symptoms, from redness and dehydration to discomfort, burning and compromised barrier.

Darling Esthetics chooses to use Dermalogica’s powerfully soothing UltraCalming ™ line.  It allows you get to the bottom of your sensitivity and guard against future flare-ups.  UltraCalming ™ products don’t just comfort and soothe. They defend against future flare-ups by restoring the skin's protective barrier and returning it to its healthiest state

Ingredients matter and Dermalogica knows it. 

• Avena Sativa (Oat Kernel) extracts: rich in Avenanthramides, the active component of the Avena Sativa plant, which have natural anti-irritant and anti-redness properties. It moisturizes, soothes, and calms irritation
• Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, a synthetic Avenathramide, that boosts the efficacy of natural Oat.
• Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Extract reduces acne and skin edema, a type of inflammation inhibits development of skin tumors, expedites wound healing and collagen production, improving skin structure and wound repair.
• Bisabolol (derived from German Chamomile): work synergistically to help reduce skin redness and irritation.
• Boerhavia Diffusa (Red Hogweed) Root Extract: has soothing, anti-inflammatory properties that help balance and restore skin integrity.
• Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extracts form a phytochemical blend that delivers immediate hydration, soothes and strengthens connective tissues.
• Glycerin hydrate and soften while defending skin against dryness.
• Opuntia Ficus-Indica (Cactus Pear) Stem Extract helps soothe sensitivity and imparts water-binding properties to help support healthy moisture balance.
• Sodium Hyaluronate, which Sodium Hyaluronate is a natural component of the skin that holds a thousand times its weight in water, maintaining optimum skin hydration levels, and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate form a Dual Hyaluronic Acid technology that works in different skin surface layers to increase and lock in moisture.
• Aloe Vera Leaf Juice hydrates skin to help relieve irritation from dryness A Triple Defense Complex in the formula nourishes the skin, relieves dryness and reinforces barrier integrity against future irritation.
• Squalene locks in moisture and boosts skin’s elasticity.
• Tetrahydrocurcuminoids from Turmeric stop skin damaging enzymes in their tracks, and combat free radical damage.
• Pharmaceutical-grade Colloidal Oatmeal forms a protective layer that seals in skin’s natural moisture while also providing additional nutrients.
• Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice acts as a softening and soothing agent.
• Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract soothes irritated skin and serves as a rich source of phytochemicals including ellagic acid, which acts as an antioxidant.
• Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract contains cooling agents that help soothe and calm irritated skin.
• Panthenol has humectant properties
• Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil is an enriched source of gamma linoleic acid, a fatty acid that is required for intact epidermal lipid bilayers.
• Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract is a ceramide-rich extract required for maintaining the integrity of the skin.
• Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Sterols, a source of plant phytosterols, help maintain the skin’s lipid barrier layer.
• Portulaca Oleracea (Purslane) Extract is an enriched extract of vitamins, fatty acids and flavonoids that help control and reduce redness.
• Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil is rich sources of gamma linoleic acid, a fatty acid required or maintaining proper lipid barrier properties.
• Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C) for collagen production and maintenance, but it is also a potent antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals in the skin.
• Tocopherol (Vitamin E) help combat free radical damage that can lead to irritation
• Emollient and protective silicones help reinforce the skin's barrier and provide a silky, smooth feel.
• Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are natural mineral sunscreens that provide protection against skin-irritating UVA and UVB rays.
• Citrullus (Watermelon) full of antioxidants
• Lens Esculenta (Lentil) functions as a skin protectant, conditioning agent, and antioxidant.
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Licorice) works to improve the appearance of dry/damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness, and also functions as an anti-irritant with anti-inflammatory and skin soothing capabilities.
• Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extracts help calm irritation.
• Hyaluronic Acid helps maintain optimal hydration and improves elasticity.
• Dimethicone is a skin-conditioning silicone that protects and reinforces barrier lipids, which are often compromised in sensitized

In conclusion, it is important to use the right ingredients to treat your unique sensitivity.  It is always best to consult a professional skin care therapist, esthetician.  A healthy skin barrier equals healthy and more even looking skin.

LED..Bright Light, Bright Light

Bright Light, Bright Light!

January 6, 2018

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Jennifer Darling

LED Light Therapy

 Picture courtesy of Darling Esthetics

What is it?

LED light therapy is a painless, relaxing, non-invasive skin-care treatment that has multiple benefits.  LED treatments work by using an array of bright light-emitting diodes (originally developed by NASA!) that send low-level light energy into the deeper layers of the skin.  Professional LED treatments are given at select day spas, usually those with a serious focus on skin care, or from estheticians with their own skin care studios.   

The recommended professional LED protocol is six treatments a week or two apart, followed by a maintenance treatment every month or two.  LED treatments are painless and relaxing, and in winter have a side benefit of counteracting seasonal affective disorder (SAD).   LED treatments last about ten to twenty minutes, and can be a stand-alone treatment or part of a facial. They are given by an esthetician and usually cost somewhere between $75 to $125 a treatment as a standalone, more if part of a larger treatment such as a Hydrafacial.

Depending on the type of LED machine the spa has, it can take anywhere from five minutes to thirty minutes. Some machines have a small head (about three inches wide) that has to be held in place on the skin for a few minutes before moving on to the next spot. These treatments take longer. Other machine have a seven-inch square that the therapist holds over your face in three sections, so the treatment is done much faster.

Your eyes can't be hurt by LED light so they don't have to be covered.  LED light therapy treatments are a good choice for people who want to boost collagen or treat mild to moderate acne.  Unlike IPL or laser treatments, LED treatments carry no risk of burning.  An IPL treatment delivers a bright blast of light at very high energy levels through a hand-held device, and can be uncomfortable, even painful.  LED treatments are actually very soothing.  An LED photofacial is a very gentle light therapy treatment suitable for the face, neck, chest, back, or all of those areas

How does it Work?

Here’s how each of the different colors, or wavelengths of light, work to promote various different results in a photo facial

Blue Light for Acne & Blemishes

Blue Light Therapy – (405 nm to 420 nm) Blue light in this wavelength range has proven to have highly powerful bacteria fighting properties. Moreover, this light can kill P. acnes, one of the primary acne causing bacteria, meaning that it can be a very effective treatment for mild to moderate acne conditions. Blue light photofacials can also help to stabilize oil glands, ease inflammation, and purify the skin.Learn more about blue light for acne treatment.Learn more about the product shown.

Green Light for Hyperpigmentation, Freckles & Age Spots

Green Light Therapy – (495 nm – 570 nm) Green light is absorbed by the melanin producing cells of the skin, slowing melanin production, and gradually breaking up excess melanin collections which are then reabsorbed by the body. Green light is known to have a highly calming effect on the skin. It can also brighten the complexion by helping to lighten areas of hyperpigmentation, freckles and age spots. At the same time, green light photo facials can soothe the skin’s surface with its anti-inflammatory properties.Learn more about green light therapy.Learn more about the product shown.

Amber Light for Spider Veins & Red Spots

Amber Light Therapy – (570 nm to 620 nm) Amber light is used for its reduction in inflammation, swelling, and redness on the face including broken capillaries and spider veins. It is often chosen for the treatment of sunburns and other types of burns, as well as conditions such as rosacea. Amber light therapy can help to bring vitality back to complexions that have become dull looking. It can bring back a more youthful “glow”.Learn more about amber light therapy.Learn more about the product shown.

Red & Infrared Light for Collagen Production & Elimination of Fine Lines & Wrinkles.  Red Light Therapy–(620 nm to 700 nm) Red light Red light photo facials are used for reducing scarring, wrinkles, deep lines, stimulates cellular activity, including the fibroblasts that produce collagen, which gives young skin its plump look. This unique ability to penetrate deeply into the skin, stimulates collagen production, rejuvenates the face, encourages cellular repair, and boosts the circulation to the face so that the complexion appears more youthful and vibrant. Thus helps minimize fine lines and wrinkles, treat sun-damage and stretch marks, and reduce redness after more and evens out the skin tone.

However, if your treatments work best in conjunction with a regular skin care routine that you develop with your esthetician.

Do they really work?

Yes, but not overnight.  It's not a cure. It's a treatment.  Low-level light therapy (LLLT) with light-emitting diodes (LEDs) is emerging from the mists of black magic as a solid medico-scientific modality, with a substantial buildup of corroborative bodies of evidence for its efficacy and elucidation of the modes of action.  It has a great effect on skin cells in both the epidermis and dermis and enhanced blood flow. Thus, LED-LLLT is a safe and effective stand-alone therapy for patients who are prepared to wait until the final effect is perceived.  

Protocol

The LED light by itself can stimulate specific cell lines and improve certain aspects of the skin, and the technology can be further improved when combined with light-absorbing chromophore gel, which allows the LED light to penetrate deeper into the skin.

Darling Esthetics uses Dermalogica IonActive treatments to achieve results.  Here's how a typical light-emitting diode session unfolds: the patient comes in after having her picture taken and lies down on an examination table, where the esthetician uses a gentle cleanser to remove any makeup or impurities.  There is an exfoliation procedure and then European massage, then a special gel is applied onto face. The multi-LED light system is then used to activate the gel, converting the light from the lamp into different color wavelengths. The light panels can also be used on other body areas, such as the chest or back.   

The good news?

This particular treatment lasts nine minutes (most LED treatments are over in less than twenty minutes), during which a warm, pleasant sensation can be felt over the entire face. While you're there you can listen to some background music, mediate, even take a nap.  After the treatment, once the gel is delicately removed, a moisturizer is applied along with an SPF to protect the skin from UV rays. Flushing very rarely occurs. That's right, you're free to walk around town or go right back to work -- no one will ever guess what you were doing just a few minutes before!

Lash Extensions

To Lash Extensions or Not...That is the Question

January 5, 2018

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Jennifer Darling

It’s no surprise that lash extensions have become increasingly popular in recent years.  Most women don't have time to apply lashes everyday.

What are Eyelash Extensions?

Semi-permanent eyelash extensions are way different from temporary strip or individual lashes. Semi-permanent ones are applied by hand one lash at a time by a technician who glues extensions on top of your actual lashes.  

Do lash extensions fall out over a certain period of time? 

Since each lash extension is attached to a single eyelash, they will fall out naturally along with the natural growth cycle of each lash. It's recommended to have a fill/touch-up every two to four weeks.

However, when an inexperienced professional applies lashes, he or she often applies one synthetic lash to three to four natural lashes, causing clumps or the lash to break and fall out. In addition, your lashes might fall out if you pick at them or try to pull them out yourself, which is a big no-no. But if you avoid those two problems, your lashes should stay intact.

Will your natural lashes get harmed or damaged? 

The biggest myth is that lash extensions ruin your own lashes. They do not. If applied correctly and properly, they are safe and do not ruin the health of your natural lashes. Be sure not to rub your eyes or tug or pull on the extensions because this can cause lash loss and even damage to your natural lashes. If lashes are applied properly and to each individual lash, they won’t fall out.

What questions should you ask when searching for a reputable salon or professional?

Because of the sensitive nature of the lashes and the surrounding area, finding someone who is certified to apply the lashes is definitely a must. Professionals use professional products and have been properly trained to apply the lashes without damaging your natural lashes or more importantly, your eyes.

Just like you would with a hairstylist, research who you want to go to and how long they have been working as a technician. Look at before-and-after photos, read reviews and always make sure they are licensed and lash-certified.

How long does it take to apply lash extensions?

Applying a full set of lashes takes about two to three hours.   A half set of lashes are an economical alternative to achieve a similarly dramatic effect, applied as filler to thicken natural lashes, or applied outward from the eye for a specialized look.

What are the most common types of lash extensions?

There are three types of lash extensions: synthetic, silk and mink. Size availability ranges from 6mm to 17mm.   Skilled technicians also offer a variety in weight and thickness to accommodate what lashes can hold.  Everyone has different lashes, and depending on the condition of your own natural lashes, lash experts can only go a certain length or thickness. (This is to ensure that your own lashes remain healthy.) For example, if your natural lashes are on the shorter, thinner side, you won’t be able to get a crazy, dramatic Kim Kardashian look, because it won’t last.

People want all different kinds of looks — some people go for drama, and some opt for something more natural.

Mink...

Usually used on older clients or those going for an extremely natural look. The allure of extensions made from mink hair is that they have a natural quality to them that you cannot get from synthetic material. Real Mink lashes come from the Mink tail, usually coming from either the Siberian Mink or the Chinese Mink. With Mink extensions, you'll get a light, fluffy, soft natural look. Real mink lashes usually last longer because they are so light as well as being able to apply several mink extensions per natural lash. The downside to this type of extension is that not only are they expensive, ranging from $300-$500 per set, but they also do not come curled. Real mink lashes need to be permed and you'll have to keep curling them at home to maintain that curled look.  Also, there is a possibility of an allergic reaction to the hair.

Faux Mink...

Faux mink eyelash extensions are the most popular extensions used by lash artists today. These man made, poly-fiber lashes come in a variety of lengths, diameters and curls, have good flexibility and remain somewhat natural looking depending on the length. They're designed to imitate real mink fur, but lash artists and clients both love this of extension type because the curl is permanent and they're low maintenance. No need to curl or put mascara on these types of extensions. The Faux Mink lashes are a little more bold, slightly glossier than the Silk and Mink. Because of their variety of size and length they're great for customizing different looks for each client.

Silk...

These are the mid-weight type of lash extensions, and are finer and more flexible than the synthetic type which makes their retention slightly better. Because of their light weight, silk lashes are good to use on older clients or clients with weak and flimsy natural lashes. Like synthetic lashes, silk come in a variety of curls and lengths. These types of extensions also hold their curl but the curl tends to be less uniform then synthetic lashes, making them better for clients looking for a more natural look. Silk lashes tend to be thicker than any other type of extensions and also have that rick black color. Silk eyelash extensions tend to be the least comfortable type of extension and are best used for special occasions. 

Application..

Once selected, the lashes are applied one at a time using a specially formulated, semi-permanent glue that will not irritate the eye nor damage the natural lash.

However, since allergic reactions are possible, there are different types of glue based on one’s sensitivity and the lash technician's options.  It’s important to understand the difference between an allergic reaction and an infection. A licensed and experienced lash technician will not let an infection occur, but if you’re allergic to the glue, you’re still going to be allergic — this doesn’t mean the glue is inherently harmful.

What happens if glue gets in your eyes?

Since your eyes are shut the whole time lash extensions are being applied, no glue will ever get into your eye. To avoid any irritation, however, the first safety precaution you can take is to be sure that the glue is safe for your eyes and doesn’t contain anything that can harm them, like formaldehyde. Shipping glues across the world often leads to a buildup of formaldehyde by the time they reach the salon.

Darling Esthetics offers extensions with a formaldehyde and latex free formula.

Can you go blind?

No. Your technician should be trained properly to apply the adhesive and lashes in a way that is completely harmless. Your eyes are closed the entire time of the procedure. No matter how bad an allergic reaction may get, you will never go blind. The worse case scenario is that you need to go to the eye doctor to get specific eye drops to treat an allergic reaction.

What happens when you cry?

If you experience any burning or discomfort during the procedure, causing your eyes to tear or making you cry, this is a huge red flag and you should certainly speak up.!  You may need to have your technician change the glue. Getting lash extensions should be a completely pain-free experience.

Care of Lash Extensions..

Keep water away from your lashes for the first 12 to 24 hours after application or touch-ups. Water can weaken the adhesive before it is set and cause lashes to fall off. The after-care varies depending on the glue used. For instance, with glue for sensitive eyes, oil-based products or makeup removers around the eye area are not recommended. Using water-proof mascara on the extensions is not recommended for any type of glue, as it is hard to remove and can actually pull off the lashes prematurely when trying to remove it.

If you are planning to wear mascara in addition to the extensions, only use it on the tips of the extensions and with a very light hand. This will be enough to give your eyes that “pop” along with the extensions. Using mascara at the base of the extensions will get very clumpy.

 

Finally, if you plan on getting lash extensions, plan on maintenance or having them professionally removed.  You should not attempt to remove your lashes yourself!  Make an appointment and have them removed.